Havila Capella Ship Review

| September 7, 2024 11:27 am

We sailed on the Havila Capella from August 17, 2024 thru August 23, 2024. These are small but mighty ships so set your expectations right and they ships won’t let you down!

Our journey on the Havila would take us from Bergen to Kirkenes and many stops in between. According to the stats on the ship, it hold 640 passengers in 179 cabins but if the ship was full during our journey we don’t think we saw this many people.

The ship itself only has 9 decks as opposed to 15+ decks on large cruise ships. It’s fairly easy to find most of the main areas on the ship and as far as we know and experienced, there are only two main elevators near the center of the ship that provide access to the other decks. There are many stairways to get up and down in other areas.

We weren’t able to get into the short term passenger area as our key card wouldn’t open the door but I am told there are simply chairs to sit in there.

Short term passenger lounge (we couldn’t get in)

The gym is split into two rooms. One room (image below) contains the weight machines and the other contains the aerobic machines. We tried to use the gyms but as you might image, they were full each time we stopped by in the morning and evening. If you plan on using the gym, plan on being there very early in the morning, during the day or late in the evening.

The treadmills and other machines were full every time we went to use them.

There is a small cafe (image below) in the ship that we used a few times for coffee and pastries. We had one meal there as well because we had a tight schedule with excursions and opted to eat something rather than risk missing a meal. The main issue I have with this cafe are the hours of operation. It seemed to open late and close early. This was a big problem because if you miss the normal dining hours at the restaurants, you’re out of luck in terms of food. There is a bar in the upper deck but it only had snacks such as potato chips and peanuts.

The ship lounge in the promenade is nice and relaxing.

Things To Improve On Ship

There was an eighth to a quarter inch of water everywhere on the ship decks. Havila should have someone dedicated to sweeping the water off the decks. I know it’s a ship out at sea but the amount of water puddles everywhere was a bit annoying.

Covered walkway (water logged)

The aft of the ship, the deck covered in water.

Aft Deck Viewing (water logged)
Perpetual Water Puddle in our Balcony

The picture above shows a perpetual puddle of water on our balcony. I should have asked for a broom and I would have swept it myself but then again this was the “Presidential Suite” so why did we have to deal with this?

Laundry

We liked that the ship had washing and drying machines on board however there were only TWO washers and driers. Fortunately, we were able to wash and dry twice without waiting too long as most of the guests didn’t seem the need to do laundry. We had a fairly long stay across Europe so we needed the laundry. These washers supposedly come with their own laundry detergent built in but we used our own washer sheets just to be sure clothes were cleaned.

What needs improvement: One of the driers stopped working with a “clean lint” error message. I tried to figure out how to clean the lint but couldn’t so had to go get help. The staff I found to help said that I shouldn’t have to clean the lint, it should be done by the staff daily and I agreed.

Cabin Service

We had the “Presidential Suite” and while we were very happy with our cabin, some things need drastic improvement. We received a bottle of champagne and periodically had chocolates and nuts provided. We’re not sure if this was supposed to be daily or just random days, it was inconsistent.

What needs improvement: Our shampoo and body wash ran out in our shower. For the price we paid for the cabin, I expect the shampoo and body wash to be topped off every day or every other day, there is no reason for this poor level of service.

The shower in the bathroom only has one slit for water to drain. This works fine when the ship is level however as soon as the ship moves, water pools in all corners of the shower. Fortunately there is a small lip that keeps the water in the shower area but it does eventually overflow when the ship lists left/right up/down while moving. On two occasions, water spilled out onto the broader bathroom floor when it escaped the sunken lip area.

Patio Heaters – Some areas around the deck could benefit from some type of patio heaters. There are some by the bar near the jacuzzi but it wasn’t enough especially for a ship that sails in the cold most of the time.

Ship Needs Entertainment

While most people likely take this journey on this ship to see the northern lights, there really needs to be *some* type of entertainment beyond the majestic landscapes outside and possible northern lights.

Here are some suggestions that we think will fit well with the type and crowd on ship:

Piano bar – have a piano player / singer available in the evenings in the promenade. The promenade is a cool place to hang out but there is nothing to do except look outside or drink at the bar. I would have spent more time here if there were some type of live music.

Evening Lounge singer – I would have loved to hear some local music from local bands or groups. At one point we did have an excursion to meet the Sami people or northern Norway and they did sing a few songs. Why not have them on the ship for a song or two?

Library – If Havila is all about eco-tourism, hydro-power, history and exploration then perhaps add an extensive library where we can read about these things from historical genesis to current state of affairs.

Cooking class – The meals on board were delicious and many dishes we’ve never had before so how about a cooking class, recipe book, and local beer/liquor tasting? Hey Havila guys, you can charge for this and we’d pay money. It’s another missed opportunity.

Conference Room – There is a conference room where one of the guides gives lessons and overviews, we loved it and wished there were more of this but barring that this room was mostly empty, it’s a huge waste. The Conference room can easily double as a “movie” room to showcase documentaries about Norway. It can house cultural events from local people like the Sami.

The whole ship feels like a quiet library and I felt like someone is waiting around the corner waiting to “shhh” me for being too loud.

Internet

Like all cruise ships, this one suffers from poor internet connectivity. To be fair, the internet mostly worked but we wonder if this was due to the fact that we hugged the Norway coast the entire time we were on the ship. We did notice that when we were further out at sea, the internet slowed or stopped working altogether. Below is an image of the typical speeds we got during our trip. I tested it almost every day.

Havila Capella Internet Speed Test

Excursions

The irony of Havila is that it’s an “expedition” vessel and while it does a great job of sailing to the destination, most of the time is spent on buses getting to those field locations. Norway is all about the great outdoors: seas, fjords, lakes, fishing, mountain hikes, mountain climbing, etc. Unfortunately, you won’t be able to do any of those things from this cruise as far as I know except see the fjords on some occasions.

I would have loved to do a fishing excursion but for some reason most cruise lines that sail on waterways don’t offer it. Baffling!

The excursion highlights on the trip for us were meeting the Sami People, the North Cape, Gerainger, and Tromso but we enjoyed all our of stops.

Havila Capella Report Card

Staff: A-

The staff on the ship was amazing, helpful and always had a smile. Perhaps Norway is truly the happiest place on earth? We deducted a few points solely because the ship was short staffed. We mostly ate in Fine Dining on the cruise and the same person, attended to us the entire time. At times, service was slow but acceptable and easily fixed by adding more staff.

Entertainment: C-

As mentioned in this review, Havila needs to do better in the entertainment area. The key here is to be creative and not try to replicate the noise chaos on larger cruise lines. I think a piano player at the bar would be a great addition. Using the mostly empty conference room for feature documentaries or films about Norway would be a good use of this wasted space.

Excursions: B+

The issue with excursions isn’t the availability, I think the constraint is Norway’s geography and infrastructure. For example, our first excursion required us to sail to the port, board a bus, take a couple of ferries to make the trip excursion. Perhaps I’m too futuristic or fancy but flying drones or low cost helicopters may make the whole thing better for tourists. We were surprised there were no helicopter ride options for such a beautiful mountain and countryside.

Services/Amenities: B-

We enjoyed the use of the free laundry room however note that there are only TWO washers and TWO dryers for 600 people on the ship. We did laundry the first day we boarded because we had already spent a few days in Oslo and Bergen and wanted to start with a clean slate of clothes. The “Gym” is a bit small but there is only so much you can squeeze into a small ship. There was no massage spa as far as we know and didn’t see any services advertised.

Dining/Food: A+

The food was excellent but if you’re the type of person that expects burgers & fries, pizza and chicken nuggets then you should probably just skip this cruise. We truly enjoyed how Havila sourced local ingredients from the areas we visited to create amazing, delicious, nutrient rich meals. The food alone is worth returning on this cruise for so we’ll be back at some point. We did however tire of the same menu so we’d like to see more options next time around.

Infrastructure: B+

We never got more than 2 mb of internet and it worked great in most places but became spotty as we headed out to sea. The puddles of water all over the deck were annoying and could easily be remedied by having a deck swab, swab the deck! I think that’s why they are called deck swabs!

Our bedroom cabin had plenty of USB charging ports but we would have liked to see some of those same ports at other parts of the cabin like near the sofa in the living room, dining room table, sky lounge chairs, and our personal Jacuzzi.

Epilogue

We had a great time on the ship but the value proposition is out of whack. For the price we paid for the Presidential Suite on Havila we would have had a much higher level of service and amenities on other larger ships. For contrast and comparison the Norwegian Epic during a Mediterranean cruise, we had our own private butler for our cabin, saw Cirque de Soleil shows, had lounger singers, piano bar and many fine dining options.

The Havila is a unique experience and a unique ship. We did like the change of pace of being on a smaller ship and not disembarking with 3000+ other people like the larger cruise ships so there are pros and cons to every proposition. If you plan on traveling on the Havila, be aware of these trade offs and set your expectations accordingly.

You can book your voyage at www.havilavoyages.com.

We’re in Amsterdam!

| August 30, 2024 12:33 pm

The adventure continues and we are now in Amsterdam after our Ireland trip.

Our first stop this morning was IKEA but that was just to pick up a few essentials.

The first real stop was to visit the best pizza in Europe, La Perla!

La Perla features an authentic wood burning oven where all these tasty pizzas are cooked and they are cooked to perfection.

We don’t have much of an agenda in Amsterdam but to rest after a long trek across Norway and Ireland but we’ll manage to do something fun so stay tuned!

Athlone, Ireland

| August 29, 2024 11:23 pm

We headed out of Galway this morning for Dublin but not before stopping at Athlone.

We visited a castle and tried to have lunch there but many of the restaurants were closed and did not open till noon witb a 45 minute wait for food.

Athlone Castle

The best feature of the castle was a short movie about the bloody history of the battle held there between the Irish and British/Dutch.

After the castle we stopped at Ireland’s oldest pub according to the Guiness World Book of Records.

The bar is a bit dark and filled with patrons while we were sitting there, it’s a popular place with locals as well as visitors. Sean’s also has it’s own branded whiskey.

Visiting the oldest pub in Ireland was a fitting end to our journey. Athlone isn’t a place we’d recommend you stop, there isn’t much to do there yet but hopefully things will improve over time. We headed to the airport to exit Ireland and start our next leg of our trip.

Galway, Ireland

| August 28, 2024 11:26 am

Started the day driving to Chonamara National Park from Galway. It was the usual drive on a two lane highway with all sorts of perils and tribulations but we made it.

There are THREE hiking trails at the park, Yellow (30m easy), Blue (1 hr, moderate), Red (2+ hrs, hard). We opted for the blue while Dutch went Blue.

Conemara Park (Blue hike)

The views were spectacular and I’m told they are even nicer from higher up but it was raining and we didn’t bring hiking shoes or poles to trek up higher so we headed back down.

There are amazing flowers growing all along the path up and down the park. Well worth a minute to stop and smell & photograph the flowers.

After spending a couple of hours at the park we headed to our next stop Kylemore Abbey.

Kylemore Abbey

Kylemore Abbey has paramount and majestic views of the surrounding mountains and lake.

We visited the interior and weren’t disappointed with the furnishing. The Abbey has a strong odor of wood and a bit smokey and musty.

There is also a gothic church under renovation to the far right of the Abbey.

The gothic church is fairly small and not as impressive as other churches we’ve visited over the years.

The view between the Abbey and church is amazing.

The garden has amazing and giant flowers growing throughout. We didn’t have time to make the botanical garden but you can still find these throughout the Abbey area.

After the Abbey visit we headed back to Galway to spend time in the city and do some shopping.

Galway

Our Dingle entrepreneur told us we had to stop and visit The Quay Pub in Galway so here we are.

Quay Pub

Sadly service was very slow and the staff seemed overworked and indifferent. They literally drive people up the walls here.

Quay Pub Food – nothing extraordinary.

After lunch we visited Charlie Byrne’s Bookshop and picked up some local Irish books and then headed to the cheese shop for some amazing smoked sheep cheese!

After the city visit we headed back to our hotel for some rest. We move on tomorrow.

Dingle To Galway

| August 27, 2024 10:59 pm

we left arou d 9 am from Dingle to drive to Galway, it was a long drive however we made a few key stops.

Irish Countryside

Not to be confused with the English countryside, the Irish countryside is spectacular.

Irish countryside & coast

Cliffs of Moher

Before Galway, we stopped at the Cliffs of Moher.

The views are majestic and spectacular and we had fair weather as a nice bonus.

Driving In Ireland

This long drive here also reminded me of a big pet peeve and criticism I have of Ireland: The roads.

Two lane road

Almost all of Ireland outside of Dublin is connected by a single two lane highway. The road is fairly narrow and there are often hedges or rock walls along the road that block views around curves and corners.

I assume the hedges are there to block farm animals from getting into the road but they also impede visual cues while driving.

I wish that were the only problem witb Irish roads but the fact is the roads are used by EVERYBODY. At one point a single bicycist was slowing down a line of cars because there was no way to pass.

At other points, pedestrians were walking along the edge and in order to not run over them, one side of the traffic needed to stop until one could pass by on the other lane.

In another section, road was being repaired which means one lane was shutdown and cars had to queue to give each other time to rotate passing.

There are also large slow moving big rig trucks hauling stuff that move slow and difficult to pass.

Overall, driving has been unpleasant as there are also imparient speed demons that ignore all speed limits and traffic rules.

Parking

Parking is also a major problem as it simply doesnt exist in most places around Ireland.

I would have prefered NOT to drive entirely bus there is no train system as far as I could tell and only ONE major road between cities.

Dingle, Ireland

| August 26, 2024 1:03 pm

We left Cork for Dingle and on the way we made a few stops…

Ross Castle

First stop is Ross Castle.

Ross Castle

Impressive castle with majestic views.

View from Ross Castle

Next stop was an old Abby.

Mockross Friary

Muckross Friary

A large cemetary surrounds this place given the violent history.

Muckross Friary

After the friary, we went to see Torc waterfall however we misread signs and ended up at the small waterfall not the larger one!

Small Waterfall

The right waterfall…

After the Waterfall we drove to Dingle for dinner and had some amazing seafood chowder and Hake fish.

Walking around Dingle is fun, lots of shops, restaurants and bars featuring Irish folk music. It wasnt always this nice or popular. It took a few courageous bar owners to bring in musicians and them it became popular so more replicated the success.

After dinner we went to an Irish Folk music event at a nearby church and we found the history of James Goodman salvaging IRISH songs before and during the Irish famine intriguing.

It has been a long day so we are off to bed….the adventure continues….

Cork, Ireland

| August 25, 2024 11:05 am

We left Dublin this morning and headed out to Cork Ireland. Our hotel was near this cathedral so we walked over to take a look. It is an impressive building called St Fin Barre Cathedral.

Entry St Fin Barre Cathedral

St Fin Barre Cathedral

After the Cathedral we headed out to Blarney Castle. This site has many stories to tell from Druids to Witches to Kings and invasions.

Blarney Castle

The site encompasses 60 acres and is impossoble to see in one day so we split up and optimized our photo shoots.

There is a ledgend that kissing the Blarney Stone at the top of the tower grants “the ability to deceive without offending”. Unfotunately, there was a 90 minute wait to climb the tower with the sheer number of people wanting to kiss the stone.

While wife was kissing the stone, I walked the grounds, gardens and rock formations eaxh with their own lore and history.

Road to Blarney Lake

Garden pathway

There are many interesting and beautiful plants in the garden including many of these giant plants.

Giant plant
Beautiful fire flowers

There is also a bee keeper on the premises that while I didnt get to see, I did see plenty of bees.

Bee on flower

There is a rich history and mythology around the castle grounds.

The Witch

Witch’s Kitchen

Druid Cave

We spent three hours on site and sadly had to depart as it shuts down at 6 pm.

The site is well worth the visit for the history, lore, mythology and beauty of the grounds.

We’re In Dublin!

| August 24, 2024 12:24 pm

We left Norway and landed in Dublin late yesterday.

This morning we had a lunch meeting with some very dear friends at a great Irish eatery called Fallon & Byrne.

The food was absolutely amazing. We had scallops, smoked salmon and Hoke.

We then did a walking tour with a student from Trinity College.

The campus is home to an amazing library which will be shutdown for renovations next year for a decade. The image below shows most of the books removed.

The university has many unique buildings including the building below where geology is taught that feature Connemara Green Marble – a rare Unesco protected stone.

There are two museums on campus dedicated to the Book of Kells and the modern museum features a very impressive and immwrsive 3D presentation that is worth visiting.

After departing the university we headed to see the Dublin Castle. An impressive structure featuring an amazing interior and exterior.

We will be leaving Dublin for the west coast of Ireland.

Honningsvag & Kjollefjord

| August 22, 2024 12:16 pm

71° 10’ 21”

Today we started the day in Honningsvag and took a bus ride to the North Cape at 71 degrees, 10 minutes, 21 seconds.

North Cape – 71° 10’ 21”

71° 10’ 21”

North Cape

Reindeer

Kjollefjord

After leaving the top of Norway we headed to Kjolleford where we met an amazing Sami family that talked about their life in Norway.

The sign says “kissing bench.”

Kjollefjord
Sami house
Sami house (interior)

Our Sami hosts started by offering us jerky made from Reindeer meat. the Sami survive in the remote arctic by herding Reindeer and fishing.

The Sami traditionally lived entirely off the land using every resource in their environment such as using the bark of willow trees to water proof shoes and leather created from reindeer skins.

The willow tree bark also has medicinal properties.

Grass is used to pad and insulate shoes, as it absorbs moisture from feet.

Feb 6 is celebration day for the Sami as that’s when the tribes in Norway, Finland and Sweden created a unified front.

Sami have 300 words for snow and a similar number to describe deer.

The Sami were never concerned or interested in climate change until they started seeing and experiencing changes to their own environment.

The normal dry coldness for weeks and months are gone.

It now rains more during winter, rain turns to ice which covers grasses reindeer use to eat and makes them unable to get food from under ice. This has caused the Sami to have to provide food for them to eat which then makes the reindeer dependent on the Sami for food.

Many stories about how the Norway government and church did not allow the Sami to play their traditional drums or speak their traditional language. Fortunately things have been turning around for the Sami in recent years.

After our stay we headed back to the ship to get some rest. Tomorrow is our last day in Norway, it’s been quite an adventure.

Tromsø

| August 21, 2024 2:19 pm

We started the day with a lecture at the conference room about the history of the long sea routes across the Norwegian coast. Our host Howard was funny and entertaining. He gave us the history of how the cruise line industry came to be in Norway and how the two cruise lines, Hurtigurten and Havila came to be. Here is a quote from one of his stories, “When I was a kid, we were told that if we studied hard and did well in school, someday we could get a job on a Hurtigruten ship but today kids are told that if they don’t do well in school they may end up working on a Hurtigruten ship, how times change.”

Another interesting point and a core issue we’ll discuss in our final review of the ship, is the ongoing labor shortage for skilled sailors on these cruises. We’ll tell you how this impacted our experience on the cruise in our final review.

Lunch

After the lecture we headed over to the fine dining restaurant for lunch.

Prawns & Crispy Potatoes
Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

I asked our attendant if she and the crew ate the same food we were being served but said they had a different menu consisting of items such as burgers, pizza and salad bars.

Our first excursion was a bus ride to the gondola station and a climb up to the mountain overlooking the entire city of Tromsø. It has an impressive view of the city and there be trolls here.

Trolls?

Arctic Church

Our second excursion stop was the Arctic Cathedral which features a unique triangular shape.

Arctic Church (Interior)

Full Steam Museum

Our third and final stop on our excursion was the Full Steam museum which features the history of the fishing industry in Tromsø.

As usual fish are hung out to dry here after the harvest which runs from January through March.

We also learned about the Sami people of Northern Norway. An indigenous group of people that have been left marginalized by the broader Norway community. This group of people have tens of thousands but have no representation in Norway’s parliament. Sad.

Dinner

For dinner, we skipped the fine dining and ate at the regular restaurant and I was a bit disappointed with the steak below. Havila Pro Tip: Stick to seafood dishes for optimum culinary satisfaction.

Veggie plate served with our entrees.

Jacuzzi

After dinner, we spent most of the evening in our Jacuzzi as we sailed from Tromsø to our next stop. We should be reaching our final destination tomorrow and it’s been a great trip in Norway.